Elie Saab
Subdued rust dresses had the softest specks of sparkle that effortlessly bounced off the dresses. The design details almost like flowers that had shed their petals as they were so delicately placed. Sequins startled and splits crawled seductively up to the thigh. You could envision the watercolour prints on a canvas as the colours merged together perfectly. A wonderfully light and feminine collection from Saab.
Alexis Mabille
The mood was of Grecian romance with gorgeous draping and asymmetry. The collection had regal qualities with the floor sweeping dresses and bow details. Sheer layers provided movement and liberated the heavier pieces. Ankle-grazing trouser suits and prints added versatility to the feminine look; that is synonymous with Mabille.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Dark and seductive with a multitude of references. It was an exploration into shape, texture, tone and influence. Black coat dresses were given the Gaultier twist with fishnets and sunglasses. Drama, theatrics and energy were in abundance as you would expect. I loved the Moulin Rouge hints and the ruffles and pinstripes lent themselves perfectly to the mood.
Stephane Rolland
An exhibition of proportion and shape. The fluidity of the pieces beautifully contrasted with the volume used to emphasise the shoulders and hips. The draping was delicate especially when combined with the asymmetry, that included flowing sleeves that reached to the catwalk. The palette was rich and light in equal measures, with nudes transforming into bronzes. Look after look showed the beauty of a body being swathed in layers of luxurious fabric.
Valentino
The diaphanous quality of this collection made the pieces so light, they looked unreal. The transparency was beautiful, the pieces were ethereal and pretty. Chiffon and organza were plentiful and were so fine they looked like they would disappear once touched.
Giorgio Armani Prive
Futuristic structure with midnight blues, teal and reds and a bit of colour clashing. Disc headwear added an oriental spin to the structured collection. Narrow trousers were worn beneath dresses and skirts, this was also seen at Chanel during the week. The collection was a statement in sci-fi exuberance.
Bouchra Jarrar
Geometry with the tell-tale white piping added a military allure to the week. The heritage tailoring was smart but also soft in places with asymmetric dresses and touches of fur. I loved the grey in the palette which complemented the designers signature piping.
House of Worth
Bedin cemented the balletic trend with this stunning collection. Black Swan has thrown the cinematic world into a frenzy and this has also translated into fashion. The pieces were ravishing, with the tutus as clouds upon which beautiful detailing rested on top. The sprawling butterflies told a story and I love the nod to the house's archive for this collection.
Photo: www.catwalking.com, www.vogue.com
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