Christian Siriano
The mood was dark and edgy, with textural contrasts narrating an intriguing story. The primarily black collection introduced hints of colour in the form of dusky pink, moss green and slate grey. Embellishment, draping and ruching were all on display. The stand out look was of a black turtleneck paired with a sumptuous, long tulip skirt...very Jil Sander S/S11.
Jenni Kayne
Textures danced amongst each other, and combined with ease to create stunning looks. Silks were transformed by a simple knitted jumper. Fur, lace, leather and feathers all interplayed and added variety and excitement to the collection. The tones of turquoise and fuschia shone out. A camel coat casually draped over a lace dress... too cute.
Peter Som
Modern with signs of nostalgia, thanks to the the beehives and shift dresses. A distressed floral print had the right balance between elegance and edge. There were many interesting shapes which were filled in with blurts of fur and metallics. A seemingly ordinary skirt suit was renovated by the addition of voluminous hips.
Rachel Comey
A graphic and fresh look at Rachel Comey. Prints galore as you would expect, and what a delightful bunch they were. Digital abstracts, zig-zag prints with matching brogues and geometry all added freshness and depth. A piercing green floral reached out from a nude shift, whilst chunky knits made sure the collection was seasonal also.
Richard Chai Love
Sophisticated and slouchy shapes. Loose and wide trousers, comforting overcoats, and long hemlines all featured. The collection was quite dark and used layering to add to the mixture of structure and slouch. A few embellishments sparkled here and there to add a little glamour femininity.
Ruffian
Androgyny that exudes sex appeal. A monochrome palette offered sensual dresses, tulip skirts, lace and floor sweeping elegance that were all woman. The masculinity came in the form of the various plays on the tux, sparking visions of a woman playing dress up in her man's closet before going to a fabulous cocktail party. The dogtooth print added an unexpected but very welcome dimension.
Vena Cava
An homage to the nineties. A decade in which I was a little girl, and a decade that I find rather uninspiring for fashion. Buhai and Mayock heavily referenced the decade especially with the leather and the abundance of exposed midriff. I loved the crop top and maxi skirt pairing and with a cardy thrown on top very autumn-worthy.
Jason Wu
Baroque decadence of the past from Wu. The many varieties of lace added sensual and ornate mystery. The pieces were stunning from beginning to end. Ribbon bows perfected necklines, grey pieces were given an extra touch with black lace and subtle dogtooth dresses added to by lace flowers. Plumes of feathers appeared and the evening dresses were amazing and split to the thigh.
Photos: www.catwalking.com
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