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Paris Couture Week Spring/Summer 2011: The Shows

Elie Saab
Subdued rust dresses had the softest specks of sparkle that effortlessly bounced off the dresses. The design details almost like flowers that had shed their petals as they were so delicately placed. Sequins startled and splits crawled seductively up to the thigh. You could envision the watercolour prints on a canvas as the colours merged together perfectly. A wonderfully light and feminine collection from Saab.


Alexis Mabille 
The mood was of Grecian romance with gorgeous draping and asymmetry. The collection had regal qualities with the floor sweeping dresses and bow details. Sheer layers provided movement and liberated the heavier pieces. Ankle-grazing trouser suits and prints added versatility to the feminine look; that is synonymous with Mabille. 

Jean Paul Gaultier
Dark and seductive with a multitude of references. It was an exploration into shape, texture, tone and influence. Black coat dresses were given the Gaultier twist with fishnets and sunglasses. Drama, theatrics and energy were in abundance as you would expect. I loved the Moulin Rouge hints and the ruffles and pinstripes lent themselves perfectly to the mood. 

Stephane Rolland
An exhibition of proportion and shape. The fluidity of the pieces beautifully contrasted with the volume used to emphasise the shoulders and hips. The draping was delicate especially when combined with the asymmetry, that included flowing sleeves that reached to the catwalk. The palette was rich and light in equal measures, with nudes transforming into bronzes. Look after look showed the beauty of a body being swathed in layers of luxurious fabric. 

Valentino
The diaphanous quality of this collection made the pieces so light, they looked unreal. The transparency was beautiful, the pieces were ethereal and pretty. Chiffon and organza were plentiful and were so fine  they looked like they would disappear once touched. 

Giorgio Armani Prive
Futuristic structure with midnight blues, teal and reds and a bit of colour clashing. Disc headwear added an oriental spin to the structured collection. Narrow trousers were worn beneath dresses and skirts, this was also seen at Chanel during the week. The collection was a statement in sci-fi exuberance.

Bouchra Jarrar
Geometry with the tell-tale white piping added a military allure to the week. The heritage tailoring was smart but also soft in places with asymmetric dresses and touches of fur. I loved the grey in the palette which complemented the designers signature piping. 

House of Worth
Bedin cemented the balletic trend with this stunning collection. Black Swan has thrown the cinematic world into a frenzy and this has also translated into fashion. The pieces were ravishing, with the tutus as clouds upon which beautiful detailing rested on top. The sprawling butterflies told a story and I love the nod to the house's archive for this collection. 

Photo: www.catwalking.com, www.vogue.com 


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I'm going to Amsterdam

I'm going to Amsterdam this friday! Yeah!! I'm so happy! I wanted to go to Amsterdam during the summer holidays but my mum never had the time to do it, now my sister is back from Canada, I can go with her. I'm so excited! I'm going to stay there until Sunday! That means I'm definitely going to AIFW!
I'll try to take a lot of pictures!

Do you know shops where I definitely need to go shopping?
Do you know not so expensive restaurants, but where they still serve good food?
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Chanel: Paris Couture Spring/Summer 2011


Chanel, Chanel, Chanel... How I have missed you. Chanel gave us feminine, laidback and light looks for their couture collection. Before we move on, I need those shoes in my life, the pointed flat patent beauties. Sigh. Signature wool suits were shown in a monochrome palette over narrow trousers. I especially loved the long boucle jacket over the sequin trousers. There were flashes of silver amongst the pastel tones and the closing dresses were simply stunning. The mood of this collection appeared to focus on innocence and the design details of the pieces explain why every woman should own at least one piece in their lifetime. I'm an old fashioned optimist.

Photo: www.catwalking.com

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The Genesis of the "Edvitorial"

Beginning early of last year, many fashion brands and retailers began to seriously reconsider the potential of online sales and digital media. Though many at first were pessimistic about it's capabilities, 2010 birthed a wide range of fresh, innovative ideas, as mentioned in our earlier posts: technologically-advanced fitting rooms, iPad apps, blogzines, and unconventional curated online-shops, just to name a few. So, naturally, this year is sure to bring about more ingenious discoveries and experiences, as last year was a time of just simply scratching the surface. Today, we focus in on the emerging trend of brand content, a combination of content, commerce, and fashion, as we see it as the number one fashion marketing trend to watch for in 2011.

photo via: Net-a-Porter

To start, Net-a-Porter, the widely successful online luxury boutique, recently introduced a "magazine" section to their site. With weekly issues, their digital magazine has everything a traditional paper copy would have: articles featuring new designers, reviews of the latest films, inspiration shots behind their photo shoots, and trend reviews of what's in for next season. But what's even better is that the content is directly connected to their online shop. It's true that it's not the same experience as physically holding a fresh glossy magazine in your hands to browse at your perusal, but clicking through a highly funded, well-executed online zine and then having the ability to immediately buy what you see is pretty neat, (and maybe even better). Their men's department, MrPorter.com, is also moving into a similar direction as they recently hired Jeremy Langmead, former editor of British Esquire, as it's new editor in chief.

photo via: WWD

Designer and commercial brands alike have also followed suit with similar ideas to engage their guests: Donna Karan shares her "journal", Tory Burch offers her city guides, Anthropology has The Anthropologist, Alice+Olivia shares their 4 AM Finds, and Club Monaco has it's own Culture Club. Even Best Buy, the mega electronic store, recently saw in-store sales shrink under pressure from the Web and in response, launched On, a digital mag-a-log with editorial content and advertisement from other brands. Catered to electronic enthusiasts, they offer everything from gift ideas, product reviews, "Geek Squad" tips, and tons of how-to's for your new toys and gadgets. Realizing that there are more people online, many brands are realizing the importance of generating conversation with their customers and keeping them interested through this new platform.

photo via: eBay

Earlier this month, eBay hired Andrea Linett, former creative director of Lucky magazine, and appointed her as their new creative director of eBay Fashion. Attempting to enliven the experience of online shopping to a more digital flea market, they are working on adding more upscale imagery to recreate the same feel of a glossy magazine. With an edition of flash sales and exclusive collections with designers like Derek Lam, eBay is on it's way in establishing it's presence in the online fashion and apparel industry.

Since bloggers have really pioneered the way for the marriage of fashion and social media, it only makes sense that Tumblr, the image-heavy platform, hired Rich Tong, the founder of the user generated street style site Weardrobe.com, and appointed him as the newly created role of fashion director. One of their first events include sending 20 of their bloggers to the upcoming New York Fashion Week and hosting a real-time feed of their content at Tumblr.com/nyfw. Participating Tumblrs include What I WorePeace, Love, Chanel; and SaraZucker.com. All bloggers will receive complimentary flights, accommodations, dates with brands and designers, and access to several shows. They will also be attending the Independent Fashion Bloggers' conference and the Bloglovin awards. 

Although Tumblr did not begin as a fashion-focused blog site, it has become a host to thousands of fashion bloggers, largely inspiration-based blogs, posting product shots, runway images, and editorials. They are valuable to brands as their sites are like free advertisement, reaching young fashionistas all across the world in a powerfully influential way through peer recommendations and conversation. Making fashion more transparent, bloggers have become an invaluable asset to many brands today.


H&M has taken blogger collaborations to the next level and launched a limited collection with the Scandinavian personal-style blogger Elin Kling as the guest designer. With a list of past collaborators including renowned design houses like Lanvin, Stella McCartney, and Karl Lagerfeld, H&M's decision to collaborate with a blogger who only launched her site in 2007 reflects a huge shift in who the customers are looking up to for style inspiration.

14-year-old blogger Tavi Gevinson also found blogging as a stepping stone to achieve greater opportunities, appearing in articles for US Harper's Bazaar, Teen Vogue, and holds future plans to launch a new magazine with Jane Pratt, founder of the now defunct Jane magazine.

We no longer live in the times where publishing, media, and retail businesses act as separate entities. The future calls for a more integrated way of doing business; the lines have blurred and multi-tasking is essential to every fashion professional's resume.

WWD names this new marketing tactic as "edvertorial", advertising meets editorial, birthed from social media and the convergence of entertainment and marketing. Tom Jarrold, chief marketing officer at A|X Exchange states, "The effect on the consumer is a more rich experience. It's a message that can be a part of and interact with instead of it being broadcast at them." If done correctly, advertising is less in-your-face and more subtly integrated to the modern shopping experience. Instead of feeling hassled and bombarded by retailers, customers are more excited to shop as companies have learned to ingeniously incorporated marketing skills through a combination of social media and capabilities of the digital platform.

As the online world offers an infinite amount of space and a world-wide audience, companies have more flexibility and creative capabilities to drive their businesses. However, creating content that people will pay attention to while being careful of presenting the right personality to the brand is key. With this new trend, not only will we be seeing innovative brand strategies, but also a shift in job roles and skill sets. What we are seeing now is just a glimpse of what we mentioned earlier in our video last year. It's exciting to see and we are definitely keeping our eyes open to share with you with what will happen next.
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Christian Dior: Paris Couture Spring/Summer 2011


John Galliano gave a nod to the heritage of Dior for his Couture outing in Paris. Christian Dior gave us the New Look in 1947, which was undoubtedly one of the most important moments in fashion history. After years of rationing and making do during World War Two the New Look introduced glamour, style and femininity to women in the post-war years. This is the topic of discussion for my dissertation by the way, I thought I was taking a break from the 1940s by looking at some stunning couture but no.

The collection was gorgeous, but it is Dior so could we really expect anything less? Whilst it was missing a little of the house theatrics, the silhouettes, shapes and colours were just divine. Dark reds whispered at a hidden seduction and wide belts nipped in the waist and balanced the volume of the fan-like flared skirts. There were puffballs, peplums and seemingly endless leather gloves... ladylike personified.

Photos: www.catwalking.com 
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The Eyeshadow: Spring/Summer 2011 Beauty Trend

The Eyeshadow
Eyeshadows played a big part in the beauty looks. They were seen in popping colours at Dior, Loewe and Louise Gray... surely the best way to bring in Summer. The colours were bright and in your face and worn with minimal make up are beautifully eye-catching. Eyeshadow always has the ability to transform a look exemplified by the ever faithful smokey eye. With these bright tones such as blue and dark pinks they are the epitome of fun in the sun. Gots to love a cliche.

Photo: www.catwalking.com


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Wooden Heel: Spring/Summer 2011 Footwear Trend

Wooden
Do you remember once upon a time when all we would adorn our footsies with were clogs? Oh, wait... that was only last Spring and they are still in stores to be fair... meh. For 2011 however, wooden heels have evolved into a sleeker design and less clunkier than their almost extinct older sister. Dolce & Gabbana showed the perfect version of these as did BCBG and Ralph Lauren. They are elegant and smooth yet still look earthy and gorgeous for day and transitioned into evening. I need. 


Photo: www.catwalking.com 

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Seventies: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear Trend

Seventies
I am currently working on a 70s inspired shoot and everywhere I turn I can see the tell-tale silhouette. The shows for S/S dictated the mood with Marc Jacobs, Pucci and D&G feeling the vibe of the decade. Top shapes to recreate this look are softly flared trousers, maxi dresses with prints such as ditsy florals, geometric and ethnic, super hotpants, jumpsuits and lightweight fabrics. Finishing touches such as floppy hats, oversized sunglasses or a headscarf all complement this nostalgic trend. 



Photo: www.catwalking.com 


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Neon Brights: Spring/Summer 2011 Womenswear Trend

Neon Brights
Neon brights were the key colour story of the season, they added a dramatic element to the plethora of white and muted looks. Christopher Kane championed the trend with a refreshing take on ladylike separates. Jil Sander perfectly encapsulated the look with the striking block colour, maxi skirts with the simplest of white tees. Maxmara brought life into their collection through their streamlined and form fitting looks in dazzling hues that oozed sport chic and fearless sophistication. Be bold and colour clash or work with one strong shade. To incorporate the trend into your daywear, dilute it with accessories only or the odd neon statement piece, such as a brooch or jewellery. 



Photo: www.catwalking.com 

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The Green in Fashion...

"Sustainable," "organic," and "eco-friendly" are terms that are still relatively new trends in the fashion industry. It may seem like we've been hearing these words forever, but it really wasn't until early last year when major retailers and designers began to heavily market eco-conscious goods. 2009 was the starting year for many companies to seriously think about going green as many eventually began offering eco-friendly versions of their key products such as H&M's Garden Collection and American Apparel's Sustainable Edition.  However, were such beginning initiatives the first and last?

photo via: NY Times

 As sustainable development was on the rise, eco-friendly jeans was naturally one of the biggest denim trends of 2009. Brands all across the board, including Levi's, Banana Republic, 7 For All Mankind, and J Brand all offered at least one pair made with some amount of organic cotton. However, the NY Times pointed out earlier this month, that now, about a year later, none of these eco-friendly versions exist.

One has to wonder why and what does this mean for the future of eco-friendly fashion? One's immediate reaction is probably some level of disappointment. However, do not be quick to judge. Although these eco-friendly versions may no longer exist, it does not necessarily imply that environmental responsibility is just a momentary fad of the past.


In actuality, many of these denim brands have realized being eco-conscious is not just about using organic products. As we've discussed many times in our earlier entries, there are dozens of other factors to consider: water use, dye impact, soil health, labor issues, fair trade, etc. Yes, Levi's no longer has their eco-friendly line, but instead, it has joined the nonprofit organization, Better Cotton Initiative. Focused on creating a greater impact, they are working with farms in India and Pakistan that focus on sustainable-agriculture techniques, water use and economic and labor issues. The Better Cotton Initiative produces cotton that uses one third less of the normal amount of chemicals and water regular cotton uses. Although Levi's will first blend this cotton with conventional cotton, the goal is to eventually use it in every one of their styles.

Levi's Matchstick Slasher Jeans from the WaterLevi's)

Considering all aspects of sustainability, last week, Levi's also launched a new line of denim called "the Water." As water conservancy is a huge concern in the global community, the new collection reduces water consumption by an average of 28% and up to 96% for some new products in the line. By simply reducing or eliminating water in their dyeing and washing process, Levi's realizes that being eco-friendly and fashion forward is not only easy, but also economically smart and morally right.

As 2009 and 2010 were the starting years for many to take a dip in the green pool, there is a slow but growing shift in the retail industry to integrate sustainable practices as a more cohesive effort. As major brands like Levi's develop their sustainability practices in a holistic approach, the retail industry has definitely matured in their methods of going green.

So before we wrap up this post, we wanted to share a few new interesting examples that caught our attention:

photo via: Reet Aus

Only using production leftovers and discarded garments, Estonian fashion designer Reet Aus truly works by the motto, "one man's trash is another man's treasure." Click here to see her latest collection!

photo via: Reco Jeans 

Perfectly mastering fashion-forward and sustainable innovation, Reco Jeans is the first and only green label certified recycled denim product. 

photo via: Ecouterre
Better known for it's 2-year wait listed Birkins, Hermes, is taking a stab at sustainability with their new limited edition  "Petit h" collection. A series of "unidentified poetic objects" crafted from defective inventory and leftover merchandise, the design team transforms scraps and defects into beautiful house adornments and fashion accessories. Leave it to Hermes to define "recycled luxury"!

That's it for today, but don't forget! MBF will cover the up-and-coming trade shows in Berlin, including the sustainable trade shows, so stay tuned and we will keep you updated with what else we come to discover!
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Mini Bags: Spring/Summer 2011 Accessory Trend


Mini Bags
Fashion thrives on extremes, if we have oversized bags one season we can look forward to the opposite for the next season. As we have here, with this new breed of bag. They are undoubtedly cute, but maybe that's because they are Chanel, Fendi and Hermes... maybe the allure wouldn't be so great if it was from [insert generic brand here]. They were used at many of the shows and were often mini versions of their bigger sisters, such as the divine Birkin and Kelly bags. They are more of a statement than anything else, you could just fill it with tissue paper or try and make do with just a lip gloss, credit card and phone. Although the possibilities that these three items offer are endless I suppose. 


Photo: www.catwalking.com 
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Wondrous in White : Spring/Summer 2011 Trend


Wondrous in White
When I saw the stunning white pieces sashaying down the Dolce & Gabbana, Maxmara, Calvin Klein and Chloe catwalks (to name a few), I couldn't help but wondering why I have no completely white pieces in my more-than-over-capacity wardrobe. Maybe it was the winter white coat that I purchased with my fashion goggles on. I was so blown away by its beauty that I didn't contemplate various factors, such as: make-up, hairspray, food, drinks, pen marks. The coat survived a few outings before the dry cleaning bill had gone way beyond the RRP. S/S has sparked a new love affair with the all white look. The high-maintenance trend is best worn from head to toe in versatile shapes and textures, like lace, floaty dresses, silk and streamlined trousers. I love this look with a tiny amount of additional colour such as a thin skinny belt, clutch or even a brooch for some added sparkle. I need not say that public transport will be an inevitable no-no here. 

 

Photo: www.catwalking.com 



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The Lip: Spring/Summer 2011 Beauty Trend

I have spent the last month or so in a whirlwind of writing proposals for my magazine and researching for a dissertation that all leads to me getting a degree in June. So, my beloved bloggy has taken a back seat. But, I am back... and with a series of posts throughout the week on the trends we will be working come Spring.

So without further ado, let's talk about lips...


The Lip
The focus for beauty in Spring will be on the lip. Well, it will be a tad difficult to miss them, as they will be bold, bright and simply hot. Think beyond just the usual pink, and go for tangerines, nouveau reds and did I mention tangerine? If you buy one lipstick, it should be an orange tone and can be slightly glossy as seen at Chapurin or matte a la Marni. I love that the rest of the face can be kept minimal and effortlessly flawless, as the pop of colour from the lip brings more than enough drama. 

Photo: www.catwalking.com 
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You've got a smile that could light up this whole town

Goodmorging!
When I woke up this morning, I thought: It's been a long time since i've posted an outfit!
So that's why I'm showing you what I wore yesterdag. Iwent shopping yesterday! Even though it was already half past 4 when I got out of my house, I was able to find I really nice handbag (It looks like an Alexander Wang Duffle Bag!) and a cute shirt! I'm very happy with the stuff I bought yesterday!

I hope you had a great weekend like I did!


Cardigan: Primark
Shirt: Cool Cat
Jegging: H&M
Belt: Flea Market
Necklace: Flea Market
Red Bracelet: Flea Market
Black Bracelet: Hema
Jesus Bracelet: Flea Market
Ring: My Mother xD
Bag: Cool Cat

I'm so sorry for the bad quality of the pictures!

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Fashionista Of The Day: Rihanna



I love her watch!


Rihanna looked very stylish when she went to the Clippers vs. Heat game.
She sat courtside with her best friend Mellisa.

She was wearing

Shoes:  Christian Louboutin Patent Leather Maudissima  463.68
Sunglasses: Ray-Ban 'Classic Wayfarer' Sunglasses $145.00
Jacket: Twenty8Twelve 'Higgins' Lambskin Leather Jacket $750.00
Handbag: Hartmann Leather Tote $500.00
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East Meets West, "A Focus on China" (Part 2)

*This article is a continuation of a 2 part series. To read Part 1, please click here.

photo via: China Daily 

With better wages and the convenience of being able to live together with their families, (something the working class of the Western world never really had to think about), China is heading toward a rise of a populous middle class and a hungry appetite for consumer spending. For example, Zara and H&M, two of the world's largest fast fashion retailers, have seen a huge success this year. H&M is ending this year with a total of 13 new stores, leading to a total of 27, while Zara opened 33 new stores, leading to a total of 60. As the country is becoming more fashion-conscious, these fast fashion retailers are thriving.

 In contrast, there is also a new consumer base of young, creative individuals who are looking rather inward to find designs that reflect China's culture and artistry. Young, 20s-30s year olds in China are now looking toward homegrown fashion that reflect a distinctive modern perspective: one that melds Western fashion sense with Chinese culture. We end this 2-part series highlighting a few of their rising stars:


One up and coming designer in Shanghai's burgeoning fashion scene is Jenny Ji, who has taken the East-meets-West concept and created a modern Chinese lifestyle brand with her ready-to-wear line "La Vie" as well as a wedding line, aptly called, "The Wedding." 29-year old Jenny Ji started her line La Vie eight years ago after studying fashion abroad in Milan and assisting a Japanese designer in Hong Kong. With stores on Tai Kang Lu in Shanghai's French concession and the Bund as well as an international presence in Paris and Stockholm, La Vie has created a buzz domestically and internationally. Asked about her sources of inspiration, she explained, "Every time we recreate our design concepts, our inspiration comes from a piece of Chinese culture. [Our] winter fashion collection [for 2010] was based on peacock feather, which are used in many Shanghai homes for decoration."

photo via: La Vie

In addition to utilizing a distinctively Chinese perspective to her designs, Ji is also known as an ethical fashion designer, using eco-friendly fabrics for her lines. "I insisted on eco-friendly materials...It's very comfortable and you can feel the difference," Ji explains, "We want La Vie to be an environmentally friendly brand, but from the business side, we also think this is the future." In La Vie's Fall/Winter 2011 collection titled "Calender Girl," Ji utilized common colors used by the Chinese: Black, Red and White and elements of the traditional "Cheongsam" in modern, Western silhouettes, melding East and West.

While the idea of sustainability is still trying to catch on in China, one store in Shanghai that has taken sustainability to the next level is Nest on Tai Kang Lu in the French Concession district in Shanghai. Dedicated to offering a range of eco-friendly products for the individual and home, Nest comprises of Chinese as well as foreign designs, aimed at supporting "the work of skilled artisans of China and in Asia." Begun by Trine Targett, a Danish native, who sought to contemporize the crafts of traditional Chinese artisans, Nest has become a design incubator and showcase for Chinese-made sustainable design, through its "Design Talk Evenings." The manifesto of Nest is that "the sum is greater than its parts." While sustainability still has a long way to go in China, the fact that there is a store for the purpose of selling exclusively sustainable products is significant, signaling a customer base in Shanghai that is interested in eco-friendly products.

Photo Via: Judy Hua

photo via: Art Zine China

Another designer that caters to an East-meet-West perspective is Judy Hua. The designer Hua Juan uses elements of Chinese art, while maintaining a modern, funky edge. She is especially known for her wedding dresses, wedding accoutrements, and custom ready-to-wear. For her Spring/Summer 2010 collection, Hua Juan was inspired by Chinese contemporary artist Zhou Chunya's Peach Blossom paintings, which depict peach blossoms and red-shaped men embracing pink-colored women. Evidence of this could be seen in the color combinations, accessories and makeup on the runway. The color combinations were distinct: white cocktail dresses with magenta shoulder pieces, magenta dresses with black blazers as well as colorful floral print dresses. Each model was outfitted with a magenta headband and had heavy, magenta eyeshadow streaked across their eyes. Instead of looking abroad for inspiration, Judy Hua looked at Chinese contemporary art, offering a unique aesthetic to the fashion community.

photo via: Chinese Coat

photo via: Eblis Hungi

In contrast, clothing brand Eblis Hungi, located on Changle Road in Shanghai's French Concession district, infuses Western men's street wear with a slight Asian sensibility, rather than the more typical East-meets-West perspective. For example, the prints used on Eblis Hungi's hoodies are patterned and sequenced similarly to traditional Chinese prints, while using a cheetah print and their logo: a mummified bean-shape. In addition, the graphics on their t-shirts show a mummified character wearing traditional Chinese garb. Overall, the color used in their graphics and clothing as well as the color combinations definitely allude to a colorful and ornate Chinese aesthetic. For example, the color combinations on their graphic tees are similar to the color combinations used in traditional Chinese buildings such as those in the Forbidden City. In contrast to La Vie and Judy Hua, Eblis Hungi reflects a translating of Western-style for the young, Chinese consumer, rather than a mixing of East and West.

As China is becoming increasingly more important in the fashion community, we can already see a number of young, creative designers who are eager to test the waters and make their mark both locally and globally. While there are many Western brands venturing into the Eastern world, there are just as many Chinese-born designers who are excited to have their designs recognized and worn by their community. Who knows, maybe some day, these designers will have their goods stocked and sold here in the States!
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