Jean Paul Gaultier: The famous conical bra was brought back in this collection as part of an overall lingerie trend for Spring. This collection didn't just capture lingerie it changed the way we have seen it at other shows. There was a hip-hop influence in some of the looks and bustier denim jackets and dungarees were shown. This showed off the trend but made it more modern and with attitude. Military influences then followed with a distinct safari feel. I loved the trompe l'oeil stocking effect tights and the nude bustier dress. When deconstructed the pieces can be very wearable especially the structured blazers.
Lanvin: Alber Elbaz can do no wrong in my eyes so I had very high expectations for this collection which he managed to surpass. He showed us our favourite one shouldered ruffled dresses but with updates in leather and beautiful colours and detailing. Tux dresses with volume at the hips had just the right balance as did the powerful jumpsuits which were strong, simple and stylish. The colour palette for the show was perfect with the right amount of light and dark with bursts of colour for Spring. The skirtsuits with sheer blouses no doubt had every fashion editor swooning. The extra details such as the high buns, high heels and one leather glove captured exactly who Alber wants the Lanvin women to be... which is who we all want to be.
Viktor & Rolf: Watching a Viktor & Rolf collection for me is like theatre the references and ideas are always bold and strong. Ever the conceptualists, they decided to cut and hack their evening gowns. But before that came heavy tulle in assymetric cuts and necklines that reached up to the temple. The colour palette was soft and delicate and toughened up with a few black pieces. The were surprisingly a few wearable pieces such as the strapless cocktail dresses and some silk items such as blouses, trousers and shorts. The added drama came with the evening dresses which had holes cut in them and pieces cut through them. I really liked this collection and it showed that Viktor & Rolf can do wearable as well. Ok, not very wearable but more wearable than other collections.
Photo: www.catwalking.com
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