Fashion's Night Out and more: Updates from around the Web

Well, it looks like we were wrong, wrong, wrong about Fashion's Night Out's success, or lack of. WWD reports today that the Sept. 10 event was SO smashingly successful that it's going to be repeated next year — and it'll be bigger and smashing-er than ever!!! Everyone's still mum about actual sales figures for the night, with Bergdorf ceo Jim Gold pronouncing that "More importantly… Fashion’s Night Out set a fun, optimistic and energetic tone for the fall season.” Yes, we'd forgotten, retailers always measure their success by the tone. Bloomberg, Wintour, and co. are looking to outdo themselves by getting New York's sales tax repealed for the day, meaning deeper discounts for those buying items over $110. Can it work? Of course it can!!

In other updates, we made an egregious oversight in posting Tuesday's bike commuting story without linking to this handy guide to the two-wheeled commute in NYC. Let it be known that MBF does not in any way condone bike commuting without use of helmets (in the US, at least), lights, and a good contingency plan for rainy weather!

Lastly, we seriously underestimated the number of licensing deals inked for Where the Wild Things Are. In addition to the two clothing collections we mentioned, there was a skateboard series, Uggs, vinyl collector toys, and jewelry... Check out the comprehensive round-up at CoolHunting!

Photo by essgee on Flickr

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It's a green recession at Condé

First, Anna Wintour was spotted walking to work. Then Grace Coddington outed herself as a subway rider. Now, as the latest result of 25% across-the-board cuts at Condé Nast, Self mag editrix Lucy Danziger is getting profiled by the NY Times — for her newfound routine of commuting by bike.

Danziger blows away all the naysayers who worry that biking is unglamorous, pedaling off in her Tory Burch outfit and arriving with still-perfect hair under her helmet — and even a still-warm morning coffee in her water bottle rack!

Unlike many bike-unfriendly Midtown office buildings, Condé even offers a snazzy bike rack in the basement, pictured above. Let's hope that's one amenity they won't be cutting!

NY Times via The Cut

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Rallying around the Garment District

Yesterday's "Save the Garment Center" rally was well-attended — by fashion students, garment workers, and even high-end designers, reports the NYT — but it looks like the district could already be making a comeback. In a far cry from this summer — when Mayor Bloomberg proposed to consolidate the entire NYC garment industry into a single building — the city is now sponsoring incubator studios for young designers, who will be selected in a competition.

The 12 lucky winners will not only get a two-year lease at below-market rent in a shiny new architect-designed space, but will also receive counseling from the CFDA, making this something like a real-life Project Runway. Of course, for the landlords involved, even more than for the designers, it's a win-win situation: the floor being used for the incubator project was standing empty anyway.

Via The Cut; photo via NYT

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Eco designers among latest CFDA/Vogue picks!

The annual CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund spread is out in this month's Vogue, and surprise! Not one, but two sustainable designers are among the 10 nominees: womenswear designer Alabama Chanin and jewelry designer Monique Péan.

This marks designer Natalie Chanin's second nomination, having already been selected in 2005 under her previous label, Project Alabama. Her clothes are made by local Alabama artisans from organic fabrics using traditional techniques, with a soft, country style.

Péan draws on the art of native cultures for her jewelry line, which is made from fair trade components including recycled gold and ethically mined gems, and donates part of the proceeds from each collection to charity, a full 50% in the case of her Charity:Water collaboration.

With an amazing crop of young nominees including Ohne Titel, Wayne — already a winner of last year's Ecco Domani award! — Sophie Théallet, and Esquivel Shoes, we're not betting on any horses yet — but it's fantastic to see ethical fashion getting the nod from Anna Wintour and company!

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Cocomaya Bakery & Serena Rees

A fashionable trio consisting of Serena Rees, Walid Al Damirji and Joel Bernstein are joining forces to open the Cocomaya bakery at the end of this month. There will be a wide host of sumptuous cakes, decadent chocolates as well as a delicious afternoon tea. I can hardly wait for this to open, I may have to pay Connaught Street a visit on the very same day that it is due to open. I still need to go to Ella's Bakehouse, I might as well fit it all in on one day.

Cocomaya Bakery opens on 29th October at 12 Connaught Street.
Visit Cocomaya for more information.

Photo: http://www.cocomaya.co.uk/

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Real vs. fake: A model controversy

Once upon a time, not so long ago, hourglass figures like Marilyn Monroe's were considered most desirable; and even as recently as the 1980s, breasts were an accepted part of a model's body. These days, with the stick-thin heroin-chic figure continuing to dominate the fashion world as Americans grow ever plumper, the fight continues to escalate between defenders of runway models and advocates of "real women" as models.

By many accounts, curvy women are back: Mad Men star Christina Hendricks' bombshell figure has attracted widespread adulation, including an Esquire profile. Plus-size model Crystal Renn has been making a splash with Hungry, her new memoir of her eating-disordered days as a straight-size model. And popular German magazine Brigitte recently declared a moratorium on using professional models, issuing an open call for readers to be cast for an upcoming photo shoot instead.

Meanwhile, Ralph Lauren has been taking a lot of flack for not only Photoshopping longtime model Filippa Hamilton-Palmstierna into bizarrely unrealistic proportions (see photos above), but also terminating her contract for not fitting into their clothes, she claims. The 23-year-old is 5'8" tall and 120 pounds.

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French Vogue 'Blackface' Shoot

French Vogue decided to do a fashion story with Lara Stone 'blacked up' which has sparked huge outrage in the media and the public. Firstly, lets not forget that French Vogue is synonymous with controversy and in some cases the controversial fashion stories that they produce do have a positive effect and show that fashion is an art form. In this case however I think it is highly insensitive and offensive. I do not believe that Carine Roitfield and Steven Klein's vision for the shoot was actually racist as I think that they are too intelligent for them to publish something so overtly racist. I believe that they were doing it to create controversy and indeed to cause a reaction.

For me, I find the whole incident a reminder of the constant issue with the use of black models in Fashion. If a black model was used instead of Lara Stone there would be no problem. If Roitfield argues that she was trying to portray the history of 'blacking up' white actors for plays she could have used black models in a clever way to portray the exact same thing.

I am a supporter of fashion being used as an art form and to convey messages that aren't always politically correct as it gives fashion a voice and creates debates. The only message that this shoot conveyed was that there is still racial prejudice and insensitivity in the fashion industry.

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The East End Thrift Store

I have been planning to visit this store for the longest while after seeing it in Vogue's secret address book a while ago and also hearing of it in a few whispers. I finally made it there last week Friday and I can now reveal that I am in love with it. I love vintage but it is so hard to find a good one with quality and reasonably priced pieces.

The store is very big and in a warehouse quite near to Whitechapel Market and opposite Genesis cinema. The owner  is lovely and they also host parties there too when I go to the next one I shall let you know how it was. Onto the clothes, they were great, you could easily spend all day in there amongst the plethora of racks. There are some great pieces and the prices are amazing. 

I bought a beautiful faux fur cape which I keep stroking it was £30! I also bought a few skirts which were £10 each mainly pencil skirts some were wool and tweed and a red polka dot silk one. I also got an oversized pink jumper for £20 and two dresses a lovely black, wool pencil dress with a cut out back and a nautical inspired navy dress. All of my purchases came to £120, I will definitely be going back every week. This is the one stop shop for vintage clothes in East London. 

For directions go to East End Thrift Store

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Paris Fashion Week S/S 10: Jean Paul Gaultier, Lanvin, Viktor & Rolf

Jean Paul Gaultier: The famous conical bra was brought back in this collection as part of an overall lingerie trend for Spring. This collection didn't just capture lingerie it changed the way we have seen it at other shows. There was a hip-hop influence in some of the looks and bustier denim jackets and dungarees were shown. This showed off the trend but made it more modern and with attitude. Military influences then followed with a distinct safari feel. I loved the trompe l'oeil stocking effect tights and the nude bustier dress. When deconstructed the pieces can be very wearable especially the structured blazers.






Lanvin: Alber Elbaz can do no wrong in my eyes so I had very high expectations for this collection which he managed to surpass. He showed us our favourite one shouldered ruffled dresses but with updates in leather and beautiful colours and detailing. Tux dresses with volume at the hips had just the right balance as did the powerful jumpsuits which were strong, simple and stylish. The colour palette for the show was perfect with the right amount of light and dark with bursts of colour for Spring. The skirtsuits with sheer blouses no doubt had every fashion editor swooning. The extra details such as the high buns, high heels and one leather glove captured exactly who Alber wants the Lanvin women to be... which is who we all want to be.







Viktor & Rolf: Watching a Viktor & Rolf collection for me is like theatre the references and ideas are always bold and strong. Ever the conceptualists, they decided to cut and hack their evening gowns. But before that came heavy tulle in assymetric cuts and necklines that reached up to the temple. The colour palette was soft and delicate and toughened up with a few black pieces. The were surprisingly a few wearable pieces such as the strapless cocktail dresses and some silk items such as blouses, trousers and shorts. The added drama came with the evening dresses which had holes cut in them and pieces cut through them. I really liked this collection and it showed that Viktor & Rolf can do wearable as well. Ok, not very wearable but more wearable than other collections.





Photo: www.catwalking.com

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Paris Fashion Week S/S 10: Balmain, Christian Dior, Comme des Garcons

Balmain: We have Christophe Decarnin to thank for the plethora of sequin pieces in the high-street. For S/S he reminded us how great he is with sequins and why we are now willing to wear them for daywear. The collection had military inspirations in the form of tailcoats, epaulettes and bullet belts. The sequins here were worn distressed, slashed and ripped which made the look a bit dirtier and edgy. Most of the pieces looked worn and ripped which had a good overall effect when worn with the sequins, metallics and black leather. Another winner from Decarnin, I guess sequins will be staying with us for much longer.

Christian Dior: The legend that is John Galliano, captured my favourite era, the forties in his latest collection. He brought forties film noir to the catwalk and showcased a multitude of stunning pieces. Trench coats were seen with cocktail dresses peeping under them. The belted jackets were a triumph and beautifully structured. Metallica trousers and thigh-high wrap dresses added sex appeal. Galliano always champions the underwear-as-outerwear trend and this season was no exception. Corsets and structured bras were shown under sheer, flowing fabrics which looked sensual and soft as did the negligees. The evening dresses were a triumph and captured exactly what Galliano was inspired by, true forties starlets.

Comme des Garcons: Rei Kawakubo showcases a scrapbook of colours, fabrics, textures and details in this collection. The collaging of the fabrics in dresses, tops and jackets was inspiring and they blended together effortlessly for a fun and quirky look. Tailoring also featured in the form of turned-up trousers. Sheer and nude pieces followed reminding us of who started the trend. My favourite piece was the transparent, nude trench and the cute polka dot dresses.

Photo: www.catwalking.com

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