To Be or Not to Be...Green

In the retail sector, the amount of things to consider when going “green" is well, unthinkable. From production to shipping to brick and mortar operations to actual consumption, there are countless approaches to utilizing eco-friendly tactics. For the next generation of retailers, sustainable practices are going to top the list, as not only consumers, but the world itself demands change and a more eco-friendly lifestyle.

Here at MBF Trend Consulting, we are firm believers in environmental awareness and our responsibility to preserve the world we live in. Just like anything else, what is education without experimentation? While we understand the industry is still rapidly adjusting, today we would like to highlight some brands doing it right and which ones are still in the learning process.

photo via yad!g.com

Marks & Spencer
With an objective to become the world’s most sustainable retailer by 2015, Marks & Spencer is definitely in route. Recently the brand launched its 2012 M&S Sustainable Retailing Challenge, which offers MBA students from around the world the opportunity to pitch their eco-friendly ideas while competing for a cash prize and most importantly, a chance to increase the brand’s sustainability strategies. Not only is the brand trying to get consumers involved but is also on a mission to re-evaluate its packaging strategies as it implements the Packaging Impact Quick Evaluation Tool. What used to take months, can now be done in under 25 minutes as the brand can quickly assess how packaging impacts affect its design process saving energy, time, resources, and money. We look forward to what the UK based retailer has in store for us next!

photo via usluairlines.com

Uslu Airlines
We've discussed the nail brand many times before, but we just can't help ourselves as it yet again releases another groundbreaking product and this time it's even eco-friendly! While most nail polish removers contain acetone or other harmful substances, Bio, is a new water based product that "penetrates nail polish." While the product doesn't work as quickly as normal nail polish remover, it does get the job done and in a much less toxic way. We feel it's definitely worth the wait!

photo via Monkee Genes

Monkee Genes

Certified by the strict demands of the Soil Association, Monkee Genes is a fair trade organic denim line. The brand's motto: "no slave or child labor, blood, sweat, or tears." With a range of different cuts and styles, the label is ethical, trendy, and affordable at under $100 USD. Be sure to keep an eye out to see how these "genes" evolve!

photo via wwd.com

Stella McCartney
Well Stella definitely has gotten her groove back as she releases a new eco-friendly sunglass collection this spring. Made of more than 50% natural and renewable materials, the shades are composed of bio-injected plastic or acetate plastic. Either way, both use minimal pesticides, water, and petroleum. McCartney was quoted saying, "The greatest challenge was the amount of time that was spent on research and testing to get the best quality product possible with the highest performance in terms of resistance, while still maintaining the style and finish we always try to achieve." With a dedication like that, these shades are sure to keep you cool this spring!

photo via nytimes.com

Levi's
Levi's is another denim label dedicated to improving it's eco-friendly procedures. Not only has the brand worked toward water efficiency and conserving cotton cultivation after severe flooding last year, but now it is ready to introduce stone washed denim that is smoothed by rocks and uses absolutely no water in the process. Keeping with this theme, all tags encourage denim wearers to wash less, in cold water, or simply not at all. The brand advises that putting jeans in the freezer kills more odor causing germs than in the wash. We predict that this "waterless" element will be the next trend to hit the market.

photo via ecouterre.com

Meanwhile as so many retailers have made significant progress in the sustainable sector, we have to remember that the name of the game is "trial and error" so the occasional blunder is unavoidable. Greenpeace, an environmental organization, is calling out 14 global companies who are supposedly discharging harmful chemicals into the atmosphere during manufacturing. These brands include everyone from Abercrombie & Fitch to Nike, Puma, H&M, Ralph Lauren, Adidas, and even Uniqlo, among others who many are coincidentally enough members of the Sustainable Apparel Coalition. The organization's Dirty Laundry Report, shows that these brands are responsible for releasing hazardous substances into waterways across the globe. Water is a limited resource just like anything else so these brands need to adapt soon and eliminate the emission of dangerous toxins into the environment. We have to know what's wrong to know what's right, right?

While some brands have successfully begun to adapt to the increased demand for more sustainable methods, many are still exposing the world to hazardous mechanisms in an effort to maximize profits or simply out of mere carelessness. While it is a learning process, actions speak louder than words. In the near future, we hope to see more retailers take action and really get out there and make a difference.

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On the Production End...

As the global economy faces a number of changes, from environmental disasters to social outbreaks, the future of production relies on smart, rapid adjustments in order to adapt. Whether that involves relocation, textile/material modifications, or design adjustments, companies all over the world are feeling the impact and doing whatever it takes to maintain quality while minimizing financial loss.

photo via: Red Luxury

While for decades China was seen as the world's production center, as their economy continues to rise, the nation has shifted toward becoming the next biggest consumer market. Designer brands such as Fendi, Burberry, Prada, just to name a few, have all implemented plans to increase brand presence across China. In order to solidify long term commitment to brand ownership in Asia, Kate Spade recently announced a joint venture in Mainland China with the E.Land group and reacquired its existing Kate Spade New York business in Mainland China from Globalluxe Ltd. this year. Many companies, from designer level to mid-price have all either opened more stores, staged runway shows and special events, or developed new offices. This shift of seeing China as potential consumers rather than a source of production is seen all across the board.

Due to higher wages and increased land costs, many brands have been forced to move their production to developing countries to gain higher profit margins. This is a drastic change for many, as most retailers have heavily relied on China for so long. For example, American luxury lifestyle brand Coach Inc. recently made plans to shift nearly half of its manufacturing out of China due to increased labor costs. While Coach increases sales in China, it plans to cut production in China to 40-50% from 85% at present. Instead, the company will begin further developments in countries with lower wages such as Vietnam, Philippines, and India.

While there are many others like Coach, resolving the issue by looking for a "new China" or "China alternative," these moves are unsustainable and will not work as long term solutions. In times where wise decision making is crucial, we suggest rethinking sourcing strategies that will not only increase profit, but also offer a plan that can truly last.

photo via: NY Times

Instead of looking to developing countries, one solution is staying close to home. Expressing their commitments to the North American market, German car manufacturing company Volkswagen, recently designed a new version of their midsize sedan, the Passat, specifically for America and is building them in its own new $1 billion plant in Tennessee. By manufacturing in the states and buying 85% of the parts from nearby suppliers, the company is able to significantly cut down its costs. There are reduced shipping and labor costs, and currency exchange rates are not an issue.

Furthermore, a recent study shows that 65% of wealthy American consumers prefer to buy American-made products whenever possible.  In a recent survey of more than 1,300 wealthy shoppers, U.S. ranked highest on an index measuring the quality of its luxury goods manufacturing, beating European countries like Italy and France.

photo via: Brooks Brothers

In retail, brands of all segments are reconsidering the "Made-in-America" label. The front page of menswear designer, Joseph Abboud's website proudly notes "Made in USA" and includes a video of the importance of American-made goods and shares background information of their production in Massachusetts. The Brooks Brothers' website also has a "Made in America" link, with factories from New York to North Carolina. Luxury jewelry company Tiffany & Co. has also expanded its manufacturing base to Lexington, Kentucky, and makes 60% of its jewelry itself.

photo via: PopSugar.com

Furthermore, New York-based label, The Row, continues to gain momentum as it was recently awarded for a new talent award by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). Using factories in New York and Los Angeles, T-shirts retail for $250 and short dresses for $2,350. While the prices may be higher, the brand has accumulated a cult-like following, winning favor from even our First Lady Michelle Obama.

Quoting Brooks Brothers chief executive Claudio Del Vecchio, "There is a customer that appreciates that the product is made in the United States and is willing to pay for the difference." Ten years ago, Brooks Brothers made few goods in the US, while today, most of their goods are American-made. As the American economy is still facing pressing issues of unemployment, if they can afford it, consumers are willing to pay the higher price to show their patriotic support. Furthermore, as people are more interested in brand transparency, wanting to know where and how their products were made, locally-sourced and manufactured goods are slowly becoming the overall preference.

photo via: Ecouterre

As raw materials such as cotton prices continue to rise, cost cutting is also a new skill many brands are learning to develop. Working with "deconstruction" experts like Peter Brown, companies are seeking to make small, minor adjustments that when added up, save a significant amount. The goal is to not cheapen the product, but to see if there is any part of the production process that is unnecessary and eliminate whatever possible to keep costs low. This is similar to the zero-waste concept, more commonly known in eco-friendly fashion practices, but is also becoming a rising trend as reducing waste continues to be an important factor. Earlier this year, New York Parsons School of Design began teaching their students how to produce zero-waste fashion, in collaboration with Loomstate. And Hannah Learner, a student at Parsons, produced the first zero-waste thesis collection, mentored by Study NY's Tara St. James and the assistant professor.

Overall, we believe that eco-friendly practices will naturally find its' way into the future of production. Not only is it the responsible thing to do, but when done right, companies will see that it is actually profitable. The above is just a small glimpse of some examples, and we strongly believe that in time, there will be an even greater synergy between the two.

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"Made in North Korea"

Besides their leader's cultish personality and a never-ending threat of nuclear tests, there is very little we know about one of the world's most reclusive nations, North Korea. But to even remotely consider North Korea as a future hub of fashion is probably the last thing on all our minds.

A group of Swedish entrepreneurs, however, thought differently; and in 2007, Jacob Åström, Tor Rauden Källstigen and Jakob Ohlsson started Noko Jeans. Because there is so little known about North Korea, the members of Noko Jeans were interested in knowing more about the country; and Noko Jeans was their way of gaining access.

After a year of email correspondences, negotiations, and business trips to North Korea, they managed to seal a deal with the country’s biggest mining company to produce 1,100 pairs of two styles of jeans, expected to go on sale this Friday, December 4^th.

Priced at 150 Euros each and stitched with a "Made in North Korea" label, the team has designed limited straight-cut, dark-washed jeans, stark in its design to resemble the North Korean landscapes. With the launch includes a documentary of the company's trip to North Korea, exposing the world of it's rather transparent production method and further insight of an enigmatic nation.

As it is North Korea’s first denim product, it is likely that Noko’s first collection of jeans, Maneuvers in the Dark, will sell out in no time. However, although Noko has the cool, edgy look for a premium denim brand, it is still questionable as to whether their “Made in North Korea” tags will be embraced by their denim loving consumers. But even then, as North Korea may not have the best connotations, it’s isolated and somewhat secretive identity may work to Noko’s advantage, providing an unmarked territory as grounds to help spark a more positive association.

Noko’s website does not yet include the details of where you can purchase these jeans, but check back shortly and we’ll let you know as soon as we find out!

Via: Refinery29

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News flash: Green really might be the new black.

What if sustainable, ethical clothing becomes the norm instead of the exception? As apparel companies focus in on value rather than price in sourcing, that very scenario was floated at the WWD Sourcing & Supply Chain Leadership Forum earlier this month, by no less an industry player than Rick Darling, president of sourcing giant Li & Fung USA.

“I actually think [corporate social responsibility] is becoming very much an assumed trait,” said Darling. “The debates about whether it costs money or doesn’t cost money are no longer valid… I think sustainability will probably be, along with quality, the two main decision-making premises for most sourcing decisions that are going to be made over the next five to 10 years.”

Li & Fung itself is in the process of calculating the carbon footprint of its 10,000 suppliers in 80 countries, no easy task. Meanwhile, at Avon, social responsibility is no longer an optional part of doing business.

“Corporate responsibility should not be an island off the coast of your business,” said Susan Arnot Heaney, director of corporate responsibility, public relations and communications at Avon. “It is how you do your business, and people in the area of supply chain and sourcing are really on the front lines.”…

She warned that focusing on one or two issues, like human rights and working conditions, rather than the entire scope of issues under the social responsibility umbrella leaves companies vulnerable.

“Consumers, advocates, activists, NGOs [nongovernment organizations], the media, legislators — they are all really paying attention to this,” said Heaney. “It’s no longer just nice to do.”

Via WWD

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